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Tsitsikamma National Park
Soetkraal
Tsitsikamma's best kept secret
Situated in the Tsitsikamma Mountain Range between Plettenberg Bay and Misgund in the Langkloof, lies a valley with "some of the wildest and grandest scenery imaginable". These were the words of Bryden, 1936, who described the area while "klipspringer stalking" as follows:
"…Bewildering mountain interiors, sometimes grim and forbidding, sometimes wildly and sublimely beautiful, lying far remote from the thinly scattered farmsteads… Sometimes in June, July or August, after the rains have come – the lone hillsides, the deep kloofs, the shallower valleys, are carpeted for a brief space with wild flowers, …scenes of rarest beauty. The wild flowers here are amongst the richest in the world, …a marvellous array. Oxals, lilies, brilliant orchids, strelitzias, mesembryanthemums, the wonderful blue agapanthus, the wild arum – so common as to be called ‘pig lily' – splendid heaths a bewildering plenty, lovely proteas, many flowering shrubs, gladioli, ixias, watsonias, noble and amaryllids … Masses of pelargoniums flourish among the secret kloofs valleys. Here a mountain side is to be seen fairly blushing with pink heath…the dark stained clean waters, gushing from yonder deep kloof under the shade of Zitzikamma (sic) forest, a little crested kingfisher, with mazarine–blue back, coral red bill and blue black crest, darts like some living gem upstream… busy among the sweet protea flowers, gorgeous sunbirds, clad in brilliant green, bronze, violets, oranges, yellows and reds, extracting with their long brush tipped tongues the honeyed dainties of which they are so ordinately fond."
Soetkraal was colonised by Europeans in the early 1900's, and by the 1940's there were approximately 10 families living on the farm leased from Thesens Ltd., the original owners of the Soetkraal area. The farmers' activities included hunting, felling trees from the indigenous forest, cultivating crops such as wheat, sweet potatoes, oranges and rearing cattle, while Thesens Ltd planted experimental plots with pine trees and tea. Because of the remoteness of the area and low income accrued by the inhabitants, the families left the valley and by the late 1960's it was virtually deserted. The area remained poorly utilised, until Thesens began a major fern picking operation in 1987.
Today Soetkraal is managed as part of the Tsitsikamma National Park, who is leasing the land from the current owners, Rand Mines Properties. Tsitsikamma National Park (TNP) aims to manage Soetkraal as a Wilderness and conservation area, forming an integral part of the Tsitsikamma National Park, while promoting environmental education and appropriate eco-tourism activities in the area.
One of TNP's goals is to protect sites and objects of cultural, historical and archaeological heritage. The remains of the houses of Messrs Van Huysteen and Vermaak, and the Old steam engine from the Sawmill and old farm implements are still to be seen. Much evidence of the Khoisan links to the area with numerous well-preserved sites both on the coast and in the mountain, being testimony to their seasonal migrations.
In order to restore Soetkraal to its former glory TNP has set out to remove all alien fauna and flora. The Tsitsikamma Working for Water Programme that is based in Soetkraal, have to date cleared in excess of 8000 hectares of Wattle, Hakea, Gum and Pine by the use of a combination of biological, chemical and mechanical methods.
The Tsitsikamma Working for Water programme is one of a number of partnerships between SANParks and the Department of Water Affairs and Forestry (DWAF) that aims to remove alien vegetation from catchment areas. The Tsitsikamma WFW programme is one of the biggest single projects in the country and contributes to the social upliftment of the surrounding communities by employing those living nearest to the project.
The Soetkraal region forms part of the catchment area for the Keurbooms River. It is therefore of utmost importance that thirsty alien vegetation is removed from this area to supplement the water supply to the Palmiet and Keurbooms River. The removal of these invading aliens in the upper region of the Palmiet River has led to the restoration of wetlands in the area. Further clearing of these invading plants could release an estimated 47 million m3 of water per year. If these plants are allowed to spread unchecked, they could potentially use up to 204 million m3 of water annually.
Tsitsikamma National Park further aims to provide specific resource based recreation, whilst limiting human activity in the area. Soetkraal, being situated deep in the mountains, is only accessible by 4x4 vehicles, hence the opportunity for members of the public to experience this spectacular wilderness area, is available in the form of a guided 4x4 trail.
The 4x4 trail traverses the Tsitsikamma Mountain Range and can be entered from the Langkloof Valley (R62), near Misgund or from the coast at The Crags, (N2) near Plettenberg Bay. The trail is 52 km in length and climbs from sea level to an altitude of 1150m and then drops into the Langkloof (600 m). Incredible vistas towards the ocean and Robberg Peninsula greet the trailists as they climb towards Witberg (1134 m), the highest point before a steep descent into the Palmiet River valley and Soetkraal. The route then meanders along the Palmiet River, through indigenous forest and once again into a fountain of fynbos species. It then climbs again until the skyline breaks into the most amazing view of the Langkloof valley. The return route to the coast is via the Langkloof and Prince Alfred's Pass. This route is a scenic extravaganza in its own right and passes through Avontuur, the Plett Trout Farm and Kruisvallei.
Visitors can camp overnight in Soetkraal near the Old farmhouse. A night under the stars is the most pleasant during the summer. The Palmiet River provides excellent swimming. Birding opportunities and a short walk up the valley towards Peak Formosa are most rewarding.
For more information about Soetkraal, please contact Tsitsikamma National Park on Tel. 042 281 1607.
To book the 4x4 trail contact anyone of the following people:
Leon Evans: 044 532 7644
E-mail: info@gardenroute.co.za
Jonathan Pells: 044 533 3503 / 082 331 9600
E-mail jonpells@iafrica.com
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